I will preface this entry with a couple of quotes from my Lonely Planet guidebook:
"While some pockets retain a salt-crusted colonial charm, La Unión is the kind of town Popeye would look over his shoulder in. It's hot and downright dirty, with little to keep you here but an overdue boat headed for the horizon. The heat is brutal; even dogs whimper at noon."
Hotel San Francisco--
"Fernando is the eccentric barefooted owner of this colonial structure that is more impressive from the outside. Rooms are pricey given the old beds and leaky bathrooms."
And now for my take:
When I bought my ticket back in May, I was feeling ambitious. My flight arrived to Guatemala City in the beginning of June and I booked it out of Managua, Nicaragua at the end of August. I figured three months was enough time to really get to know three Central American countries: Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua. I have come to realize that it is hardly enough time to get to know two countries. I decided to cut El Salvador out of my itinerary to dedicate more time to Guatemala and Nicaragua.
Regardless, I needed to pass through El Salvador to get to Nicaragua. After returning to Earth Lodge for two nights (which was fantastic) and spending two nights in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala, I made my way to the capital.
On Wednesday morning at 7:30AM I left for San Salvador. I was told the trip would be 4 hours and so I planned accordingly. At this point in my travels, I should know better to take an conversation regarding time as fact. Nothing ever leaves on time and travel is always longer than anticipated. In this case, my trip doubled in duration. One hour into the trip, the attendant on the bus informed us, in a very solemn tone, that the Salvadoran border had been shut down due to a strike. The attendant said we would proceed just the same and hope the border would open at 11AM. I got online right away, because the bus had wifi, and searched for articles to explain what was happening. I read that Guatemala and El Salvador had come to an agreement to let tourists pass more easily in the first week of August for the holiday in El Salvador. I also read multiple articles about the number of violent and accidental deaths that had occurred as a result of the holiday. Needless to say, I was anxious, confused and slightly scared. Fortunately I was going to stay with friends in El Salvador but when the wifi cut out I could no longer contact them with such ease.
The traffic stopped at the border and we moved maybe half a mile over the course of four hours. One attendant said we might not make it across, my friends said we would definitely cross but it would take a while and the second bus attendant kept reassuring the passengers that we would cross the border very soon. At 2:30PM we were finally moving and at a good pace. We got into the city two hours later and my friends, Gabi and Jose (guests I met at the Lodge 4 days earlier), picked me up from the terminal.
The city was more beautiful than I imagined and despite the unrelenting heat, I was so happy to be there. It turns out that the day I arrived was also Gabi's birthday. We went and bought a cake and then went straight to their house. I showered and changed and we spent the rest of the day in the living room or on the terrace. Their friends arrived, we ate pizza & cake, and I tried to keep up with all their conversations. Although I didn't really get to know the city, I got to know my new friends and pick up Salvadoran slang.
In the morning Gabi made blueberry pancakes & French-press coffee and we exchanged silly stories over breakfast. I had hopes to go on a city excursion in the morning but after a much needed Skype session, I practically ran out of time. Jose met Gabi and me for lunch at a place called Pupusería la Paciencia #1. I ordered two pupusas: one with beans, cheese, and pork & another with cheese and a squash called ayote (the last time I had pupusas was when I was in Honduras, sick and with no appetite). They were steaming hot but irresistibly delicious. With a cold Coke, the whole meal cost me $2. At the table I made several phone calls to work out my hotels for the next few nights and my boat to Nicaragua for the following day. I had read online that a boat left once a week, Friday at 8AM, from La Unión, El Salvador to Potosí, Nicaragua. When I called the hotel in La Unión, the owner insisted there was no such boat. When I called the hotel in Potosí, they were certain there was a boat but they had no clue when it left. They told me to go to La Unión and inquire upon arrival.
Gabi put me in a taxi at 1:30 so I could catch the bus at 2 and arrive by 5. Once again, I naively took this information as fact. On the bus I made friends with the woman next to me, Mayra. She could hardly believe I was traveling on my own and remarked how strong I must be. Mayra has a brother who loves to backpack around Latin America and she worries about him all the time. She tried to imagine how my parents must feel. At 5PM, we still had not arrived to La Unión but Mayra got off the bus. She promised me that everything would work out and that she would never forget me.
The last hour was filled with worry that the boat to Nicaragua didn't exist. When we arrived at 6, the bus attendant insisted my hotel was only three blocks away and I need not take a taxi (even though it was getting dark and my backpacks are getting heavy).
A few blocks up the road and there was no sign of the hotel. I stopped to ask a woman and she had no idea. She didn't even know the name of the street we were on. An older man carrying a tv on his shoulder quickly chimed in and walked with me to the hotel. I inquired about the boat and like the rest of people I had asked, he was unsure. He insisted I go drop off my bags and then we would walk to the port to find out for sure. I was quite skeptical but I dropped off all my valuables (and Jose dropped off the tv in my room) and I walked a few paces behind him towards the port making small talk to calm my anxious mind.
The first man we asked was also clueless. The second was the official on duty who insisted that the boat left daily from 9AM onward. I asked lots of questions to be certain and the man replied "Don't believe what the others tell you."
Jose then walked me to the central park where I bought two more pupusas and a Coke for each of us. Total: $1.80. The Coke was served in a plastic bag with a straw because we could not take the glass bottles with us. Plastic bags, I have discovered, are common receptacles for beverages in Latin America. Jose finished his drink in two slurps and threw his bag to the curb. I wanted to ask him why he would do such a thing, but I understand that littering is very common in this part of the world, especially in coastal towns, and I didn't want to scold him after he had been so helpful. He told me of his days in the navy and how he considers it his duty to take care of "people like me" which was a euphemism for clueless gringos.
Back at the hotel, Jose picked up his tv and we agreed to meet at 8AM so he could take me back to the dock.
I went out on my balcony to enjoy some fresh air and immediately heard a shout from down below: "¡Una moneda!" A rail-thin woman was begging for a coin. I went into the room and returned with two dollar coins. I tossed the first one which landed at her feet and then the second, which landed at her feet and rolled to the middle of the road just as a motorcycle came whizzing past, honking the horn. I shouted out of fear that she would chase the coin immediately but she waited for the bike to pass. As she walked away I advised it was best to spend the $2 on food and not booze or cigarettes. I told her to take care of herself and watched her disappear down the dark, dirty road.
My room at Hotel San Francisco was a hoot. The first thing I saw upon entering was a rusty sink. The second was the hammock strung in the middle of the room. I have recently decided to rate my accommodation based on the quality and range of motion of the hammocks they offer. This hammock was a net, not my favorite material, but swung freely between my bed and the table (a 7 out of 10 I'd say). I kicked back and watched the news, which was disturbing, so I switched to the dubbed version of a dramatic US tv program I didn't recognize.
Although the fan was directly above my bed, I struggled to sleep, still concerned about this elusive boat to Nicaragua. I woke at 7AM to search for an ATM and breakfast. El Salvador uses the US dollar and most everything seems to cost a quarter. They use the word "quarter" in English with a Spanish accent which is just as hard for me to pronounce as it was to understand. I got two bananas and three tortillas for $0.50.
Clearly, Jose was late but when he arrived we went straight for the dock. When we arrived he gestured for me to have a seat while he went to inquire. A girl with a black hat and and hardcore demeanor came over and said that she would be going to Potosí but seemed really pressed for time. She made it seem like she would be getting on the boat any minute and I needed to hurry.
(Another note about Latino time: many of you know the Spanish word "ahora" means "now". However, "now" in Latino culture does not mean RIGHT NOW. It could mean in a moment, an hour or sometime that day. So when the girl said she was leaving "ahora" I shouldn't have panicked in the slightest.)
Jose and I rushed to immigration to get my exit stamp. The woman at the desk also seemed stressed about time and told me I should have arrived earlier. Everything was processed in 5 minutes and Nexcy, the serious girl in charge of the boat, ran off to make a copy of my passport. She told me to go wait at the dock and she would alert me when it was time to go. The estimated departure time was 11AM so what was all this stress and rushing around?
As I waited at the dock, vendors came through selling most everything you could imagine: fruit, cheese, bras, shirts, boxers, nail polish, hair accessories, light bulbs, remote controls, cell phones, medicine, lotion, you name it. I thought this idea was simply absurd. Why would someone waiting for a boat suddenly realize they need to buy toothpaste? Until the sock vendor came through and I realized I could use a fresh pair. I mean it was two pairs of socks for a dollar. How could I say no?! I put my criticism aside and pulled out $1.
Nexcy came by and said we were almost going to depart. I continued to wait in the unbearable heat and Jose eventually shook my hand and left me to fend for myself. I was relieved because his company continued to make me uneasy. His conversations with friends passing through the port were crude and awkward for me to overhear. Plus, he barely spoke to me. He mainly just gave me a blank stare.
After almost 2 hours, Nexcy came up and said it was actually time to go. I hauled my bags down to the sandy area where I put them on a cart. Then I was told I too should get on the cart. Two men pushed me, Nexcy, and my bags through muddy water. I felt like I was on a chariot. The further out we got, the worse it smelled of rotten eggs. We hopped from the cart to the boat where we were joined by two men, each almost 300lbs. The boat set sail and I was overflowing with joy. I did it!
Along the way, Nexcy's serious expression relaxed to a smile. She would lean over and point out various islands: "That's Amapala. It belongs to Honduras. That's Manguera, where I live." Suddenly she went from being an intimidating hard @$$ to a total sweetheart. Within minutes she wanted to exchange information so that I could come back to El Salvador and stay with her.
We dropped of the obese señores on the island where Nexcy lives and then we had to switch boats. Now it was just me, Nexcy and the driver. We zoomed over the bay with hardly any bumps and zero protection from the sun. The view was stunning and my heart almost exploded with happiness. I was so relieved that Nicaragua was on the horizon.
Although my time in El Salvador was short, it was the most adventure I've had yet in my travels (even more than jumping off a rope swing & face planting or swimming through a cave with only a candle to light the way).
In Nicaragua I have climbed an extinct volcano and spent four days at a beach hostel in a small fishing town. I also took a turtle tour in a rain storm where I saw lightening illuminate the distant skies and released recently hatched turtles into the sea. I have met a hilarious Brit and a one of a kind Dutch guy & had so many laughs that my stomach still hurts.
Less than two weeks til I am back in the States. So if there are few reports between then and now, I promise to give the full report in person.
Lots of love from León. ¡Hasta pronto!
"While some pockets retain a salt-crusted colonial charm, La Unión is the kind of town Popeye would look over his shoulder in. It's hot and downright dirty, with little to keep you here but an overdue boat headed for the horizon. The heat is brutal; even dogs whimper at noon."
Hotel San Francisco--
"Fernando is the eccentric barefooted owner of this colonial structure that is more impressive from the outside. Rooms are pricey given the old beds and leaky bathrooms."
And now for my take:
When I bought my ticket back in May, I was feeling ambitious. My flight arrived to Guatemala City in the beginning of June and I booked it out of Managua, Nicaragua at the end of August. I figured three months was enough time to really get to know three Central American countries: Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua. I have come to realize that it is hardly enough time to get to know two countries. I decided to cut El Salvador out of my itinerary to dedicate more time to Guatemala and Nicaragua.
Regardless, I needed to pass through El Salvador to get to Nicaragua. After returning to Earth Lodge for two nights (which was fantastic) and spending two nights in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala, I made my way to the capital.
On Wednesday morning at 7:30AM I left for San Salvador. I was told the trip would be 4 hours and so I planned accordingly. At this point in my travels, I should know better to take an conversation regarding time as fact. Nothing ever leaves on time and travel is always longer than anticipated. In this case, my trip doubled in duration. One hour into the trip, the attendant on the bus informed us, in a very solemn tone, that the Salvadoran border had been shut down due to a strike. The attendant said we would proceed just the same and hope the border would open at 11AM. I got online right away, because the bus had wifi, and searched for articles to explain what was happening. I read that Guatemala and El Salvador had come to an agreement to let tourists pass more easily in the first week of August for the holiday in El Salvador. I also read multiple articles about the number of violent and accidental deaths that had occurred as a result of the holiday. Needless to say, I was anxious, confused and slightly scared. Fortunately I was going to stay with friends in El Salvador but when the wifi cut out I could no longer contact them with such ease.
The traffic stopped at the border and we moved maybe half a mile over the course of four hours. One attendant said we might not make it across, my friends said we would definitely cross but it would take a while and the second bus attendant kept reassuring the passengers that we would cross the border very soon. At 2:30PM we were finally moving and at a good pace. We got into the city two hours later and my friends, Gabi and Jose (guests I met at the Lodge 4 days earlier), picked me up from the terminal.
The city was more beautiful than I imagined and despite the unrelenting heat, I was so happy to be there. It turns out that the day I arrived was also Gabi's birthday. We went and bought a cake and then went straight to their house. I showered and changed and we spent the rest of the day in the living room or on the terrace. Their friends arrived, we ate pizza & cake, and I tried to keep up with all their conversations. Although I didn't really get to know the city, I got to know my new friends and pick up Salvadoran slang.
In the morning Gabi made blueberry pancakes & French-press coffee and we exchanged silly stories over breakfast. I had hopes to go on a city excursion in the morning but after a much needed Skype session, I practically ran out of time. Jose met Gabi and me for lunch at a place called Pupusería la Paciencia #1. I ordered two pupusas: one with beans, cheese, and pork & another with cheese and a squash called ayote (the last time I had pupusas was when I was in Honduras, sick and with no appetite). They were steaming hot but irresistibly delicious. With a cold Coke, the whole meal cost me $2. At the table I made several phone calls to work out my hotels for the next few nights and my boat to Nicaragua for the following day. I had read online that a boat left once a week, Friday at 8AM, from La Unión, El Salvador to Potosí, Nicaragua. When I called the hotel in La Unión, the owner insisted there was no such boat. When I called the hotel in Potosí, they were certain there was a boat but they had no clue when it left. They told me to go to La Unión and inquire upon arrival.
Gabi put me in a taxi at 1:30 so I could catch the bus at 2 and arrive by 5. Once again, I naively took this information as fact. On the bus I made friends with the woman next to me, Mayra. She could hardly believe I was traveling on my own and remarked how strong I must be. Mayra has a brother who loves to backpack around Latin America and she worries about him all the time. She tried to imagine how my parents must feel. At 5PM, we still had not arrived to La Unión but Mayra got off the bus. She promised me that everything would work out and that she would never forget me.
The last hour was filled with worry that the boat to Nicaragua didn't exist. When we arrived at 6, the bus attendant insisted my hotel was only three blocks away and I need not take a taxi (even though it was getting dark and my backpacks are getting heavy).
A few blocks up the road and there was no sign of the hotel. I stopped to ask a woman and she had no idea. She didn't even know the name of the street we were on. An older man carrying a tv on his shoulder quickly chimed in and walked with me to the hotel. I inquired about the boat and like the rest of people I had asked, he was unsure. He insisted I go drop off my bags and then we would walk to the port to find out for sure. I was quite skeptical but I dropped off all my valuables (and Jose dropped off the tv in my room) and I walked a few paces behind him towards the port making small talk to calm my anxious mind.
The first man we asked was also clueless. The second was the official on duty who insisted that the boat left daily from 9AM onward. I asked lots of questions to be certain and the man replied "Don't believe what the others tell you."
Jose then walked me to the central park where I bought two more pupusas and a Coke for each of us. Total: $1.80. The Coke was served in a plastic bag with a straw because we could not take the glass bottles with us. Plastic bags, I have discovered, are common receptacles for beverages in Latin America. Jose finished his drink in two slurps and threw his bag to the curb. I wanted to ask him why he would do such a thing, but I understand that littering is very common in this part of the world, especially in coastal towns, and I didn't want to scold him after he had been so helpful. He told me of his days in the navy and how he considers it his duty to take care of "people like me" which was a euphemism for clueless gringos.
Back at the hotel, Jose picked up his tv and we agreed to meet at 8AM so he could take me back to the dock.
I went out on my balcony to enjoy some fresh air and immediately heard a shout from down below: "¡Una moneda!" A rail-thin woman was begging for a coin. I went into the room and returned with two dollar coins. I tossed the first one which landed at her feet and then the second, which landed at her feet and rolled to the middle of the road just as a motorcycle came whizzing past, honking the horn. I shouted out of fear that she would chase the coin immediately but she waited for the bike to pass. As she walked away I advised it was best to spend the $2 on food and not booze or cigarettes. I told her to take care of herself and watched her disappear down the dark, dirty road.
My room at Hotel San Francisco was a hoot. The first thing I saw upon entering was a rusty sink. The second was the hammock strung in the middle of the room. I have recently decided to rate my accommodation based on the quality and range of motion of the hammocks they offer. This hammock was a net, not my favorite material, but swung freely between my bed and the table (a 7 out of 10 I'd say). I kicked back and watched the news, which was disturbing, so I switched to the dubbed version of a dramatic US tv program I didn't recognize.
Although the fan was directly above my bed, I struggled to sleep, still concerned about this elusive boat to Nicaragua. I woke at 7AM to search for an ATM and breakfast. El Salvador uses the US dollar and most everything seems to cost a quarter. They use the word "quarter" in English with a Spanish accent which is just as hard for me to pronounce as it was to understand. I got two bananas and three tortillas for $0.50.
Clearly, Jose was late but when he arrived we went straight for the dock. When we arrived he gestured for me to have a seat while he went to inquire. A girl with a black hat and and hardcore demeanor came over and said that she would be going to Potosí but seemed really pressed for time. She made it seem like she would be getting on the boat any minute and I needed to hurry.
(Another note about Latino time: many of you know the Spanish word "ahora" means "now". However, "now" in Latino culture does not mean RIGHT NOW. It could mean in a moment, an hour or sometime that day. So when the girl said she was leaving "ahora" I shouldn't have panicked in the slightest.)
Jose and I rushed to immigration to get my exit stamp. The woman at the desk also seemed stressed about time and told me I should have arrived earlier. Everything was processed in 5 minutes and Nexcy, the serious girl in charge of the boat, ran off to make a copy of my passport. She told me to go wait at the dock and she would alert me when it was time to go. The estimated departure time was 11AM so what was all this stress and rushing around?
As I waited at the dock, vendors came through selling most everything you could imagine: fruit, cheese, bras, shirts, boxers, nail polish, hair accessories, light bulbs, remote controls, cell phones, medicine, lotion, you name it. I thought this idea was simply absurd. Why would someone waiting for a boat suddenly realize they need to buy toothpaste? Until the sock vendor came through and I realized I could use a fresh pair. I mean it was two pairs of socks for a dollar. How could I say no?! I put my criticism aside and pulled out $1.
Nexcy came by and said we were almost going to depart. I continued to wait in the unbearable heat and Jose eventually shook my hand and left me to fend for myself. I was relieved because his company continued to make me uneasy. His conversations with friends passing through the port were crude and awkward for me to overhear. Plus, he barely spoke to me. He mainly just gave me a blank stare.
After almost 2 hours, Nexcy came up and said it was actually time to go. I hauled my bags down to the sandy area where I put them on a cart. Then I was told I too should get on the cart. Two men pushed me, Nexcy, and my bags through muddy water. I felt like I was on a chariot. The further out we got, the worse it smelled of rotten eggs. We hopped from the cart to the boat where we were joined by two men, each almost 300lbs. The boat set sail and I was overflowing with joy. I did it!
Along the way, Nexcy's serious expression relaxed to a smile. She would lean over and point out various islands: "That's Amapala. It belongs to Honduras. That's Manguera, where I live." Suddenly she went from being an intimidating hard @$$ to a total sweetheart. Within minutes she wanted to exchange information so that I could come back to El Salvador and stay with her.
We dropped of the obese señores on the island where Nexcy lives and then we had to switch boats. Now it was just me, Nexcy and the driver. We zoomed over the bay with hardly any bumps and zero protection from the sun. The view was stunning and my heart almost exploded with happiness. I was so relieved that Nicaragua was on the horizon.
Although my time in El Salvador was short, it was the most adventure I've had yet in my travels (even more than jumping off a rope swing & face planting or swimming through a cave with only a candle to light the way).
In Nicaragua I have climbed an extinct volcano and spent four days at a beach hostel in a small fishing town. I also took a turtle tour in a rain storm where I saw lightening illuminate the distant skies and released recently hatched turtles into the sea. I have met a hilarious Brit and a one of a kind Dutch guy & had so many laughs that my stomach still hurts.
Less than two weeks til I am back in the States. So if there are few reports between then and now, I promise to give the full report in person.
Lots of love from León. ¡Hasta pronto!
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